Ingredient Glossary
- Active Ingredient
- Active Ingredients must be listed first on a label and be approved by the FDA. Active Ingredients are considered to have the ability to alter the structure of the skin. These effects must be documented by scientific studies and meet FDA standards. Examples of active ingredients include sunscreen, Retin-A, and skin-lightening agents.
- Alcohol
- Certain alcohols used in skincare products can be drying and irritating to the skin. Sometimes they are used in creams to cut the thickness of a product and transport ingredients to the skins’ surface. Other times they are used in toners to clean the pores on the skin. Some alcohols that may be drying and cause irritation to the skin include SD Alcohol, Ethyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Isopropyl, Denatured Alcohol, Methanol, and Ethanol. Conversely, “fatty” alcohols, such as Cetyl and Cetearyl Alcohol, are not really “alcohols.” Fatty alcohols are used as emollients, and are beneficial to the skin.
- Almond Oil
- Almond Oil, also referred to as Sweet Almond Oil, is oil extracted from the dried kernel of an almond plant, and is considered to be an effective emollient.
- Aloe Vera
- It is commonly thought that the sap from the Aloe Vera plant is soothing to dry skin, promotes wound healing, and reduces inflammation. Although this substance provides a relieving sensation to the skin, scientific evidence of its true healing benefits is unclear.
- Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA)
- The use of AHAs has been shown to help reduce fine facial lines and improve the overall smoothness and texture of the skin. They are used by dermatologists in high concentrations in chemical peels, and offered in home kits in low concentrations. The most widely used and considered most effective AHA is Glycolic Acid, usually manufactured from sugar cane. Another common AHA is Lactic Acid which is derived primarily from milk. Lactic Acid is considered to be good for sensitive skin since it is milder and less irritating on the skin than Glycolic Acid. Common side effects from AHAs include peeling, redness, flaking, and increased sensitivity to the sun. The extent depends on the concentration used, with chemical peels having more severe side effects than over-the-counter AHAs. When using AHAs, it is strongly recommended to limit exposure to the sun and always use a sunscreen.
- Alpha Lipoic Acid
- Lipoic Acid (or Alpha Lipoic Acid), a natural substance found in the body and certain foods, serves as a potent antioxidant. Lipoic Acid is both water and fat soluble and has been demonstrated to benefit a number of health conditions. However, studies of topical application of ALA have varied regarding its effect on improving skin texture and wrinkles. Positive studies purport that ALA decreases fine lines and wrinkles, reduces inflammation, and improves the texture of the skin. If so, ALA could rival one of the leading wrinkle fighters, Retin-A, and be less irritating to the skin. Dr. Nicholas Perricone is a strong advocate of the benefits of Alpha Lipoic Acid to the skin in his book “The Wrinkle Cure,” and it is a cornerstone of his skincare product line.
- Antioxidant
- Antioxidants are substances that serve to prevent, neutralize, or kill naturally-occurring, yet harmful chemicals, known as “free radicals.” Free radicals are unstable molecules that can come from a variety of sources including oxygen, sunlight, radiation, pollution, and cigarette smoke. The damage from free radicals is referred to as “oxidation” which means loss of electrons. This in turn causes a variety of diseases, as well as increased aging to the skin. With respect to the skin, free radicals break down collagen. Antioxidants such as Vitamins A, C, and E as well as amino acids, peptides, and enzymes may help to prevent free radicals from causing and reversing damage to the epidermis.
- Ascorbic Acid
- Form of Vitamin C, an antioxidant, which may serve as a stimulant of collagen synthesis. Only L-Ascorbic Acid has been shown to be effective on the skin.
- Ascorbyl Palmitate
- Form of Vitamin C derivative. Also an antioxidant but less effective than Vitamin C in stimulating collagen synthesis.
- Avobenzone
- Sunscreen ingredient known as Parsol 1789 that serves as a broad spectrum to protect the skin from UVA rays. This is an organic sunscreen that absorbs UV light and dissipates it as heat to protect cells from sun damage and premature aging to the skin.
- Beeswax
- Secreted by honeybees and serves as an emollient in skincare products. Well-known ingredient in Burt’s Bees products.
- Benzoyl Peroxide
- Over-the-counter, topical agent used to kill bacteria in the treatment of acne.
- Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA)
- BHA, also known as Salicylic Acid, is the key additive in skincare products targeted to treat oily skin, blemishes, and acne. It may be used as an exfoliant, as well as in chemical peels to reduce blemishes and acne. BHA treats acne by causing skin cells to slough off and prevent pores from clogging up. Additionally, due to its effect on skin cells, Salicylic Acid is used several dandruff shampoos.
- Broad Spectrum
- Refers to ingredients in a sunscreen that protect the skin from UVA rays in addition to UVB rays. Some examples of broad spectrums include Parsol 1789, Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide, and Mexoryl.
- Caffeine
- Caffeine is used in many cellulite creams to reduce the appearance of cellulite. When applied topically, in order to be effective, caffeine must penetrate deep into the skin and reach the fat tissue before being absorbed. Although some studies may show a small reduction in the appearance of cellulite, this is more likely a temporary reaction. In order to effect a substantial change, the product has to contain a sufficient concentration and penetrate the subcutaneous fat layer for an extended length of time.
- Calendula Extract
- Natural ingredient derived from the Marigold plant. May help soothe skin ailments.
- Castile Soap
- Soap made predominately from olive oil, which is usually less drying and irritating to the skin.
- Ceramides
- A natural component of the skin, Ceramides are lipids (fats) that retain water, regulate cells, and repair the skin’s protective barrier.
- Cetearyl or Cetyl Alcohol
- Cetearyl and Cetyl Alcohol are not “Alcohols” but are effective “Fatty” acids used as emollients and carrying agents in skincare products. They help to trap moisture in the skin and repair the skin’s protective barrier. Should not be confused with “irritating” alcohols such as SD alcohol.
- Chamomile
- From the Chamomile plant; has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.
- Cocoa Butter
- The moisturizing substance from cocoa beans. Cocoa Butter is a rich emollient with skin softening and conditioning properties.
- Coconut Oil
- Coconut Oil is obtained from removing the oil of the dried copras of coconuts. Coconut Oil is an ingredient used in natural soap formulas.
- Coenzyme Q10
- Coenzyme Q10 is an antioxidant known as “Ubiquinone” or CoQ10. This substance is the energy producing unit of cells, and is necessary for the basic functioning of the body. Skincare products that contain Coenzyme Q10 advertise it protects the skin against aging, and helps to improve the appearance of wrinkles and sun-damaged skin.
- Collagen
- A major component of the skin that provides its’ structure. Along with keratin, it is responsible for skin strength and elasticity, and its degradation leads to wrinkles that accompany aging. Sun damage is one example why collagen deteriorates. Although collagen is a good water-binding agent, when applied topically, it has not been proven to produce or build more in the skin.
- Comedogenic
- Refers to ingredients in cosmetics that clog pores and lead to blackheads, pimples, or acne. Some examples of comedogenic ingredients include Mineral Oil, Petrolatum, and Paraffin.
