What’s the Difference between Moisturizer and Emollient?

That is the question!  The terms “Moisturizer” and “Emollient” are often used interchangeably.  However, the term “emollient” more often describes a single ingredient, whereas “moisturizer” describes a finished product.  Emollients are substances which soften and soothe the skin, as well as help with dryness, and are part of the composition of moisturizers.  Emollients provide occlusion to the skin (a layer of oil to slow water loss and increase moisture content) and serve as a humectant (preserve or increase water content).

Some examples of emollients include Cetearyl Alcohol, Isopropyl Myristate, Triglyceride, Myristic Acid, Palmitic Acid, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Linoleate, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Decyl Oleate, and Stearic Acid.  Additionally, some examples of “natural” emollients include Lanolin, Plant Oils, Shea Butter, and Cocoa

Is Organic Skincare Truly Organic?

There is a common misperception that “Organic” beauty products are the same as “Natural” products.  “Organic” and “Natural” are not interchangeable.  Whereas there is no regulated definition of  what constitutes a “natural” product, there are strict regulations to label a product “organic.” 

So how can we not be defrauded as organic consumers?!  Look for the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) National Organic Program certified “USDA Organic” symbol! 
* If a product states it is 100% Organic, it will carry the USDA Organic seal and contain 100% organic ingredients (with the exception of water and salt). 
* If a label states it is “Certified Organic” or “Organic,” it will also carry the USDA Organic symbol and consist of at least 95% organic ingredients …

Ho Ho Jojoba Oil

Last night I ran out of my new favorite eye serum Relastin, available at Amazon, and was deciding to just skip the eye cream portion of the evening :) when I spotted my small bottle of Jojoba Oil in the cabinet.  Jojoba (pronounced Ho-Ho-bah) Oil is extracted and cold pressed from the jojoba bean.  This natural oil is an excellent emollient and moisturizer for the skin and hair.  It is a superior conditioner, moisturizer, and cleanser that aids in softening the skin, as well as promoting healthy hair and scalp.  It has also been reported to help with wrinkles and stretch marks.  Jojoba oil is one of the closest possible matches to human sebum (oil).  

Since Jojoba Oil is completely natural, it can be purchased in …

Take (or apply?!) your Vitamins

Many skin care products tout the beneficial effects of Vitamins as ingredients.  Applied topically, the following have been shown to be effective: 

Vitamin A
Vitamin A is a powerful antioxidant that is effective in helping reduce the appearance of fine facial wrinkles and improving skin texture.  Use of topical Vitamin A causes increased sun sensitivity so it is strongly recommended to use an effective sunscreen.  Tretinoin is a potent derivative of Vitamin A and it is one of the few substances whose anti-aging effects on the skin have been widely documented.  Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate are also derivatives of Vitamin A.

Vitamin B3
Vitamin B3, also known as Niacinamide, has been shown to be an effective topical ingredient that helps with skin texture and tone, …

Hydroquinone, Skin Lightener or Bleached Whale?

Hydroquinone, a skin bleaching, or lightening, compound reduces pigmentation associated with brown spots, freckles, melasma, and darker skin by inhibiting melanin production.  There is controversy surrounding the topical use of this skin-lightening agent.

Although Hydroquinone was approved by the FDA for use in cosmetics in the United States, it’s been banned in several countries including Europe, Japan, and Australia.  However, in August 2006, the FDA proposed a ban on over-the-counter products that contain this ingredient.  These products contain up to 2% of Hydroquinone compared to prescription products which contain up to 4%.  Common prescription products include Tri-Luma, Lustra, and EpiQuin Micro.  The reason for the recently proposed ban is due to studies in rodents that showed “some evidence” Hydroquinone may be carcinogenic …

Green Tea, It’s Easy Being Green

The use of Green Tea Extract in skin care products is one of my favorite ingredients.  Green Tea contains the potent antioxidant Flavonoid Phytochemicals, also referred to as Polyphenols.  The percentage of Polyphenols found in Green Tea is significantly higher than that contained in Black Tea

There have been a number of studies demonstrating the beneficial use of Green Tea in skin care.  Applied topically, Green Tea has been shown to reduce sun damage by inhibiting Free Radicals and lessening inflammation caused by Ultraviolet Rays.  In effect, Green Tea may work synergistically with sunscreen to further enhance sun protection.  Additionally. the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of Green Tea may help to slow down the signs of aging.  Beauty Beat recommends looking for products that …

Vitamin A: Help your skin avoid the post holiday blues!

Vitamin A is a powerful antioxidant that helps reduce the appearance of fine facial wrinkles and improve skin texture.  Vitamin A has been shown to help with fine wrinkles, brown spots, and surface roughness caused by sun damage and the natural aging process.  Since Vitamin A affects the physical structure of the skin, a prescription is required for products such as Retin-A or Renova

Vitamin A works on the deeper layers of the skin where fine wrinkling and pigment changes may occur.  Although it does not eliminate wrinkles or reverse sun-damaged and aged skin, Vitamin A works to increase the thickness of the epidermal level.  This, in turn, helps the skin look younger and fuller.  Additionally, it has been shown to reduce brown spots and …

Caffeine in Skincare: Does it wake up your skin?

Trying to cut back on your coffee?  Will substituting caffeine in your skincare have the same effect?!  Caffeine is used in many cellulite creams to reduce the appearance of cellulite.  When applied topically, caffeine must penetrate deep into the skin and reach the fat tissue before being absorbed in order to be effective.  Although some studies show a small reduction in the appearance of cellulite, this may be just a temporary reaction.  In order to effect a substantial change, the product needs to contain a sufficient concentration and penetrate the subcutaneous fat layer for an extended length of time.

Bottom line: Switch to decaf.

Alcohol in Skincare: On or off the Wagon?

Certain alcohols used in skincare products can be drying and irritating to the skin.  Sometimes they are used in creams to cut the thickness of a product and transport ingredients to the skins’ surface.  Other times they are used in toners to clean the pores on the skin.  Some alcohols that may be drying and cause irritation to the skin include SD Alcohol, Ethyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Isopropyl, Denatured Alcohol, Methanol, and Ethanol.  Conversely, “fatty” alcohols, such as Cetyl and Cetearyl Alcohol, are not really “alcohols.”  Fatty alcohols are used as emollients, and are beneficial to the skin so, if that is the case, “drink and be merry!”

Vaseline still an Ole Standby Moisturizer!

Way back in 1870, before the rise of exotic ingredients in moisturizers such as Sake, Caviar, Seaweed, Silk Protein, or Rare Botanicals entered into our lexicon, a fellow by the name of Robert Chesebrough discovered a natural product, rich in minerals from the earth, displaying remarkable skin-healing properties.  That product was Petroleum Jelly, which was subsequently commercialized under the name Vaseline.  Fast forward to today, there are an overwhelming number of moisturizers offered in the market.  Many skin care experts and scientists cite good ‘ole Petroleum Jelly as the most effective moisturizer to use on the skin!  A moisturizer serves to keep moisture from escaping out of the skin, but does not actually “put” moisture back into the skin.  The …

Yea for Shea! (Shea Butter, that is)

Shea Butter is one of my favorite ingredients in skin care products.  Unrefined Shea Butter is a solid fatty oil from the nuts of wild shea trees in Africa.  The moisturizing and healing properties of Shea Butter have been a mainstay of African pharmacology for centuries to protect, heal, and smoothe the skin.  High in unsaponifiable fats as well as Vitamins A and E, Shea Butter has long been recognized for its amazing healing effects on skin conditions, dryness, and cell regeneration.

As the weather gets colder, Shea Butter is a perfect ingredient to protect the skin from dryness and becoming chapped.  With all the new and cutting-edge skin care ingredients on the market, there are few (in my opinion!) that are as …

Which skin care products work?

Due to numerous advances in the anti-aging market, there is a dizzying array of products and treatments to select from in order to “turn back the hands of time.”  Some offer basic care, others promise radical results.  Some have “old standby” ingredients, others contain extraordinary components (from creams handcrafted in a remote European monastery to Seaweed from the Dead Sea to human growth factors!).

What truly works?  Most “over-the-counter” products cannot alter the skin.  To do so, would require FDA approval.  Cosmetics companies are not required to prove if or how their products work on the skin’s appearance and, subsequently, often state on a label that the product “improves the appearance of the skin.”  Anti-aging products are commonly referred to as …